I was annoyed by lead char, but stuck it out for a couple-three discs. We were really entertained by the fact that the series seemed to be out to overturn all the Fushigi Yuugi conventions, and it really kicks the whole "trust everyone" theme in the teeth not too much further along. We haven't gone back to it because it's pretty unrelieved drama, and we're just not in a space to cope with that -- we got distracted by FMA, which we started watching almost simultaneously, and which has heavy drama well seasoned with humor.